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National Trust
_The Printed Shroud

Switched on! - Shining a light on female innovation exhibition, Women in Power, Cragside, June 23 to November 4, 2018

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The Printed Shroud is a collection of 3D-printed textiles that bridges the gap between traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge technological innovation. This captivating exhibit pays homage to the legacy of women pioneers in the lace-making industry, celebrating their contributions to mathematics, pattern design, and textile engineering. Presented as part of an exhibition supported by the National Trust, this work is a testament to the transformative power of technology in reinterpreting heritage crafts.

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At its core, The Printed Shroud is inspired by the intricate artistry of lace-making, a craft historically shaped by women who, often unsung, applied advanced mathematical principles to create their designs. By reimagining lace-making through the lens of digital fabrication, the exhibit highlights the profound intersection of art, technology, and mathematics. Each piece in the collection is meticulously crafted using 3D printing techniques, employing complex layering and precision engineering to replicate and reimagine the delicate textures and patterns of traditional lace.

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Lace-making has long been a symbol of women’s ingenuity, particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when it flourished as a vital industry. The designs in The Printed Shroud draw from this rich history, honoring the mathematical brilliance and artistic vision that defined the work of these women. By using advanced digital tools to reinterpret these patterns, the exhibit brings their legacy into the modern era, demonstrating the enduring relevance of their innovations.

In addition to its cultural significance, The Printed Shroud explores the possibilities of contemporary design and material experimentation. The textiles are fabricated with lightweight, durable materials, showcasing the potential for 3D printing to revolutionize the production of intricate, customizable fabrics. This approach not only preserves the aesthetic beauty of traditional lace but also introduces new functional applications, from fashion to interior design.

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The exhibit also underscores the evolving relationship between humans and machines in the creative process. It invites viewers to reflect on how technology can enhance traditional crafts rather than replace them, fostering a dialogue between past and present. By emphasizing the role of mathematics and design in lace-making, The Printed Shroud highlights the intellectual and creative labor of women who contributed to advancements in both textile production and mathematical theory.

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The 3D printing process in utilized thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) to create intricate chainmail-inspired geometries, flexible shells, and single-piece wearable garments. TPU’s elasticity and strength allowed for the production of lightweight, interlocking structures that mimicked the complexity of traditional lace. These chainmail designs combined flexibility with durability, enabling a dynamic range of motion while maintaining structural integrity. 

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A notable example of this approach was a single-piece glove prototype, fabricated in one uninterrupted printing process. The glove demonstrated TPU’s capacity to conform to complex anatomical shapes, offering both a precise fit and practical flexibility. Additionally, the process enabled the creation of flexible shells with transitions between rigid and soft elements, designed to adapt to movement while maintaining durability. 

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